
Long canoes, like the one above, are the most popular form of transportation along the Rio Napo. Before motors had reached the area, locals would drift downriver, using long poles as guides for the hollowed-out canoes. To return to their destination, the Napo Runa (runa being a Kichwa word for “people” or “man”) would use the same long poles to push the canoe upriver, a very strenuous and time-consuming undertaking.
Having arrived at the Field School via bus, I was very eager to harness the power of the river for transportation. Some of the other students and I banded together one Saturday to do just that using some spare inner tubes provided by Professor Swanson. In the interest of safety, Professor Swanson requested that we use life jackets, which was to be a very provident recommendation. He also warned us of a large whirlpool on the left side of the river that we would need to avoid.
The object of our quest was Misahuallí, the literal end of the road in our part of the jungle, where we would catch a cab or a bus back to our camp. We knew the trip would take a few hours, so being the science-minded Western students we were, we made a few modifications to our transportation. Mesh bags were filled with water bottles and sunscreen and tied to a rope, which was attached to one of the tubes. We had our doubts, however, about how this bag would fare as we passed through some of the rougher rapids. Tying all five tubes together, we thought, would allow us more stability through the rapids and ensure that rogue currents would not split us up.
Our crew was comprised of newfound but strong friends. Veto was a go-getter, a true Eagle Scout (unlike your author, who is only an Eagle Scout in title). He spearheaded many of the efforts at engineering our ride. Liz and Emma were studying GIS (Geographic Information Systems) at the field school, and were both eager for a relaxing day on the river. My roommate Anthony also joined us, whose nature I felt was the most buoyant. We all collaborated and decided together on the best ways to navigate and survive our first kinetic trip down the Rio Napo.

On a day not unlike this...
Partially cloudy days were rare in the Amazon: the sky was either a black downpour or sunny. Around 10:00, as soon as we put our tube craft in the water, a shadow passed over the sun. We hoped for better luck.
Though cloudy, our trip was going nicely. The river’s ripples splashed gently alongside our tubes, providing the perfect chill to another week in the jungle. Once we had to get out and push the craft back into the main river current, but our trip was mostly easygoing thus far.
Finally we came to the point where Professor Swanson said there was a whirlpool. Paddling and kicking furiously, we avoided the choppy, oceanic waves, only to corner ourselves into a less deadly but nevertheless stagnant pool. We initially thought we could ride the current around and be pushed back into the river, but to no luck. We had few plans so whirled carelessly for a few minutes.
But simply taking the tubes out of the water and walking around the whirlpool was out of the question. Dense jungle and slippery rocks surrounded the area. We did find a place to take the tube craft out of the water and sat on a large boulder in thought.
The boulder was at the immediate edge of the whirlpool; if only we could just sneak around the two-foot rapid spilling over our boulder, we would be back in the river’s main current. But our massive, loosely tied craft made this difficult. Nevertheless we resolved that this would be our plan.
We positioned one of the tubes in front and decided Emma would get in it; the rest would push the other four tubes off the rock and into the rapid and then jump in. Maybe it was our newfound relaxed jungle mindset or perhaps just our Saturday giddiness, but something was negatively affecting our logic. In retrospect, it was not the best of decisions.
Before we were ready, Emma, sitting in her tube, was pulled from the whirlpool and into the rapid, where our rope held her in a precariously balanced position. Rushing, the other four of us quickly jumped in our tubes and passed over, or rather through, the rapid. Suddenly the wall of water seemed to grow in size and bucked Veto, Liz and I from our tubes, plunging us into the chilly water. Panicked, I made an attempt to come up for air, but only managed to get a single eye above water level. The rope-tube structure was holding me under and preventing me from breathing. I could feel Veto’s struggle next to mine, though he wisely pushed himself out from beneath the churning water to safety. Yet again I tried coming up and was denied by the rope and tubes.
As cliché as it sounds, my life jacket surely saved my life. I cannot remember what happened after my second attempt at air; I came to floating head-up in the river about 20 feet from the tube craft. I was still gasping for air as if my body could not trust or believe that it had survived despite itself. I soon learned that the other travelers mistook this gasping as signs of a serious neck injury. We all began laughing deeply in that nervous manner, glad to have fooled nature once again.
Some 30 minutes later we arrived in Misahualli, though I would have preferred we arrived immediately after the accident. Relaxing with our oversized beers, we eventually reverted to nonverbal communication, to smiling and sipping away our next hour, sitting firmly on the concrete patio, glad to be dry.
I felt very calm and aware for the remainder of that week. We had constructed the river as a means to a recreational end, a novelty to be explored and exploited by our tools and resources. But the Rio Napo was reminding us that it, too, is powerful, perhaps even that we were a form of its own recreation, a feeble group of floating humans giving themselves to the river as clay begs hands to mold it. I had learned how to risk it, to ignore danger of death, and embrace all experiences, no matter how close to drowning they may come.